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Start with the branch, not the saw

Most British gardens reach a point where secateurs are no longer enough. Somewhere past the width of a finger — around 2 cm — the blades begin to crush rather than cut, and it is time for a proper pruning saw. Loppers bridge the gap up to roughly 4 cm, but beyond that a saw is the honest answer.

Saws are not complicated tools. There are only a handful of designs, and once you know what each one is for, choosing takes minutes.

Folding saws and fixed-blade saws

Nearly every garden saw belongs to one of two families. A folding saw has a blade that pivots into the handle, leaving a compact tool for a pocket or tool bag. A fixed-blade saw has a solid handle and a blade that stays out.

Folding saws win on portability. If you are moving between trees, working one-handed on a ladder, or carrying tools into a woodland, a folding saw is the sensible choice. The best lock open firmly and shut again without fuss.

Fixed-blade saws win on efficiency. The longer blade puts more teeth in contact with the wood, the stiff spine reduces wobble, and there is no hinge to rattle. For a heap of branches or a few substantial limbs, a fixed-blade saw finishes noticeably faster. It needs a scabbard — a sharp saw loose in a bag is a liability.

A bow saw still has a place in the woodland garden for firewood and rough clearing, but for living branches on garden trees a fine-toothed pruning saw leaves a cleaner wound.

Pull stroke or push stroke?

This choice divides saws more than any other. Traditional Western saws cut on the push stroke: the teeth bite as you push the blade away. They are robust and forgiving, happy in dirty or dead wood, and excellent for roots and stumps.

Japanese-style saws cut on the pull stroke. The blade is thinner, the teeth finer, and the saw removes wood as you draw it towards you. A thinner blade means a narrower kerf and less waste; the blade is less likely to bind in a green branch; and because the saw pulls itself into the cut, you need far less downward pressure. For clean pruning of living wood, it is hard to beat.

One caveat: pull-stroke blades are delicate by comparison and dislike being twisted or forced. Let the teeth work and they will last for years.

Teeth, sharpening and the long game

Tooth count tells you what a saw is for. Roughly, eight to ten teeth per inch cuts fast and suits bigger limbs, whilst twelve or more leaves a smoother finish on smaller branches and green wood. Most general-purpose garden saws sit in between.

Then comes sharpening. Hardened, impulse-treated teeth — sometimes called hardpoint — stay sharp remarkably well, but once dull they cannot be filed; you replace the blade. Traditional resharpenable teeth need the odd pass with a saw file, yet will outlast several hardened blades in careful hands.

• A few cuts a year: hardpoint teeth are the easy answer.
• Regular pruning: a saw with replaceable blades, or resharpenable teeth if you enjoy the upkeep.
• Woodland and firewood: a sturdy push-stroke saw or a bow saw for rough work.

Handles, grips and reach

A saw you enjoy using is one you will reach for. Handle shape matters more than you might expect. A straight handle lets you cut at a natural angle close to your body; a pistol grip gives more control when reaching overhead or working at awkward angles.

Look for a grip that fills your hand, with non-slip cushioning that stays put in damp weather. If you wear gloves, check the handle still feels secure with them on. A small hook or flare at the end of the handle is a useful detail — it stops your hand sliding forward onto the blade when the saw bites.

For branches beyond a safe reach, a telescopic pole saw saves climbing. Never saw above shoulder height on a ladder: if you cannot reach it from the ground or a stable position, that is a job for a trained tree surgeon.

Cutting well, and looking after the tool

• Use the three-cut method on heavy limbs. Undercut a hand's width out from the trunk, cut from above a little further out to remove the weight, then take the stub back to the branch collar.
• Respect the branch collar. That swelling where branch meets trunk holds the tree's natural defence. Cut just outside it, never flush.
• Let the saw work. Short, steady strokes along the full blade beat frantic pushing.
• Clean sap off the blade with a cloth and a little oil, and store the saw dry. Sap and damp pit and dull a blade faster than anything.
• Wear gloves and eye protection. Fine sawdust and springy branches both hold surprises.

Choose a saw that suits the branches you actually deal with, keep it sharp and dry, and it will quietly earn its place in your tool bag for years.